Driving in Chile's capital is no different than driving in Canada. Somehow, you expect roads or signage in South America to be alien - maybe a round, purple marker containing an incomprehensible character. But, no, like the ubiquitous Starbucks marquee, it's all pretty straightforward.
As you get around, though, the differences become more apparent. For example, vendors who make their way among the stopped cars at red lights, hawking goods, are not unusual. But in Santiago their wares are more fantastic, such as mutant asparagus, spears bigger than kindling and strings of succulent emerald artichokes, 12 for $2. The gorgeous produce comes from the incredibly rich soil and sunny, mountain-protected climate in the Santiago area. Locals say you can tell what season it is by the street vendors' produce. I was there in spring (it was autumn in North America) and was thus too early for the strawberries that are like massive, euphoria-inducing rubies.
Another refreshing difference in Santiago is the absence of obvious road rage. Though I observed a lot of herky-jerky, stop-start driving habits and completely inconsiderate behaviour behind the wheel, no one loses his or her cool. In fact, when motorists pull up to offensive drivers at lights, the exchange is often cordial. "Beep, beep," said my cab driver, smiling through the open window at a particularly obnoxious huevón in an old MG.
And, though in Santiago you can see the same Ford F-150 pickups, Mini Coopers and Chevy Suburbans as you see in Toronto, you also see a lot of brands that you would never expect. In fact, Chile is like the United Nations of automobile sales, with brands representing most of Europe: Seat (Spain), Citroën, Peugeot and Renault (France), BMW, Audi, Mercedes (Germany), Volvo and Saab (Sweden) and Alfa Romeo (Italy), not to mention Mahindra from India, Korean makes Kia and Ssangyong, Japan's Toyota, Honda and Subaru, and Malaysian marque Proton. But by far the country selling
the most brands in Chile is China. You may recognize the nameplates Chery and Great Wall, but have you ever heard of Yuejin, DongFeng, Hafei and Shineray?
According to Fortune magazine, Chile's diverse international auto market is due to two related factors. One, there is no indigenous automotive industry in Chile and, two, the country has extremely low tariffs on vehicles. With no national manufacturers to protect, Chile is able to offer zero tariff to 90% of imported automobiles. It's like a vehicular free-for-all.
For a Chilean in the market to buy a car it must be fun, or incredibly confusing, to have so much choice.
When you park in certain Santiago neighbourhoods, it's not unusual to encounter unofficial parking "attendants." These helpful people guide you into a spot, even if it's huge, and then graciously open your door. While you're away they'll watch your car to protect it from vandals and thieves. All this for a tip of a dollar or so. It would be unwise, I was told, not to proffer the required funds.
Outside of Santiago, the highways are used by everybody - not just motorists. On a road comparable with the 401, there were people jogging and exercising, carrying massive loads of goods, riding bicycles and I even saw one woman pushing a toddler in a stroller.
Another interesting aspect of Chilean roads is the so-called "love motels," roadside havens for couples to conduct illicit private affairs, some offering elaborately themed rooms for flights of adulterous fancy. According to my local sources, these establishments are very discreet, allowing you to drive in, enter your room and check out without seeing or being seen by another guest or staff member. The few love motels I saw from the road (honestly) were surrounded by trees with nothing to indicate interior shenanigans.
I suppose if you squint you could be in Niagara Falls.
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